Mt. Makalu Expedition - 49 Days

About Trip:

“The mountains are calling, and I must go.” – John Muir

Known as “Makaru” in China, Mount Makalu rises to 8,485 meters in the Mahalangur Himalayas of Nepal. It is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is highly sought after by mountaineers. The first attempt to climb Makalu was made in the spring of 1954 by an American team led by William Siri, known as the California Himalayan Expedition. The team, which included Sierra Club members such as Allen Steck, attempted the southeast ridge but had to turn back at 7,100 meters due to persistent storms.

Around the same time, a New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary also tried the climb but was limited by injuries and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance team successfully summited the subsidiary peaks Kangchungtse and Chomo. Makalu was first successfully climbed on May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy as part of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Over the next few days, the majority of the team also reached the summit—a remarkable achievement, as most expeditions at the time only saw 1-2 members reach the top while the rest provided logistical support. The French team ascended via the north face and northeast ridge, crossing the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse, which became the standard route.

Mount Makalu lies 19 kilometers southeast of Mount Everest, straddling the border of Nepal and China. It is a striking, isolated peak with a four-sided pyramid shape. The mountain has two notable subsidiary peaks: Kangchungtse (Makalu II, 7,678 m) to the northwest and Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m) about 5 kilometers northeast, connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow 7,200-meter saddle.

The Makalu expedition takes climbers through settlements of Rai and Sherpa communities. As the altitude increases, Tibetan settlements appear, and near the mountain, human habitation is sparse. The region maintains strong Buddhist traditions and local culture.

Despite its popularity among climbers, Mount Makalu is extremely challenging. It is known for steep slopes, sharp ridges, and exposure to harsh elements. The final summit pyramid requires technical rock climbing. Makalu remains the only 8,000-meter peak in Nepal yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. This expedition offers breathtaking views of glaciers and the surrounding Himalayan giants, giving climbers a sense of standing amid the world’s tallest mountains. Himalays Traverse Adventure has designed this expedition package for mountaineers seeking the ultimate challenge of an 8,000-meter peak.